ABOUT · ALEX JOHNSON
Hi, I’m AJ.
Pro climber, two-time World Cup gold medalist, and the coach behind DELPHI. I’ve been coaching since 2011, and everything I build comes back to one idea: chase mastery, and the results follow.
11
U.S. Open National medals
2×
IFSC Boulder World Cup golds
15+
Years coaching
V14 & 5.14
Hardest boulder and sport grades
01 · THE CLIMBER
17 years on the U.S. National Team.
From youth nationals to World Cup podiums, with two Pan American titles and 165+ sends V10 and harder along the way, including 25 from V12 to V14.
2003Won my first U.S. Open National Championship at age 13.
2004Open Pan American Champion at age 14.
2008First American to win a Boulder World Cup on U.S. soil.
2010Gold in Switzerland, becoming the first American to win two Bouldering World Cups, plus silver in England. Ended the season ranked 4th in the world.
2016Stepped back from comps to climb outside: first female ascents, new lines across the Southwest and hard boulders up to V14.
2019Came back to competition, took silver at U.S. Nationals and got back on the World Cup circuit, ending the season ranked 13th in the world: the highest-ranked U.S. boulderer, men’s or women’s.
2022Strongest outdoor year: five V12s and three V13s, and an ascent of The Swarm (V14) featured in Reel Rock 16.
2026Back on the comp circuit with a 9th place finish, one spot out of finals, at the World Climbing Pan American Series.
02 · THE COACH
Coaching since 2011.
I’ve coached through youth and adult clinics, national training camps, private lessons and years as a full-time head coach of a competitive youth team. My athletes range from Youth and Open National Champions, World Cup competitors and Olympians to weekend warriors pushing their own limits in the gym and outside.
My coaching blends the physical and the mental: comp strategy, detailed movement analysis, mindset training and programming built around each athlete. Outside, I’ve spent years projecting up to V14 and 5.14, so I know what it takes to work a climb at your limit, on plastic or real rock.
Whether you’re getting ready for comp season, breaking through a plateau or projecting your hardest climb yet, you get a coach who gets to know you, your goals and the way you learn.
Olympians
World Cup athletes
V14 & 5.14 climbers
Youth & Open National Champions
Gym climbers
THE DELPHI MISSION
To empower athletes to unlock their potential through personalized, high-quality coaching that’s intentional, supportive, and deeply invested in long-term growth.
That means real, lasting coaching relationships, with every plan tailored to each athlete’s goals, needs and learning style.
In their words
“One of the biggest challenges for an athlete is finding a coach who matches your level of dedication and desire to improve. You have always been attentive, and the training plans you’ve given me have been personalized and tailored not only to what works on paper, but to what works best for my mind and body. You have been my rock through some of my most important competitions, providing unwavering support while also bringing so much fun and positivity to my training. I am incredibly grateful for the impact you’ve had on my growth, both as an athlete and as a person.”
JUNIOR US NATIONAL CHAMPION, OPEN NATIONALS MEDALIST
“Literally cannot thank you enough for helping this become possible. This climb was very much at the forefront of my mind on our first training call last year and it’s so sick that it actually happened!”
DELPHI ATHLETE, AFTER SENDING A LONG-TERM OUTDOOR PROJECT
“I almost quit climbing when I burned out early in my career, but you helped me abandon my results-oriented approach and learn to compete for the love of the game. Ironically, this ideology enabled me to achieve my greatest competition performances to date. You preach work ethic, authenticity, and self-expression married with science-backed training tactics for a holistic approach that is unique to every athlete.”
5× US OPEN NATIONAL CHAMPION, WORLD CHAMPION MEDALIST
Let’s find out what you’re capable of.
Apply in a few minutes, and I’ll reach out to talk through your goals.